Shucking the Patriarchy, One Oyster at a Time

Briana Le

Faculty Mentor:

Dr. Halley Froehlich
Department of Ecology, Evolution, and Marine Biology

You walk into a seafood restaurant, surrounded by patrons cracking open their steamed Dungeness crab, while others savor their garlicky, buttery shrimp linguine pasta. A hostess greets you and guides you to the bar, giving you a plastic, laminated menu. You sit down on a high-top chair and begin perusing the options. Warm, low-hanging lights illuminate the words on the page while creating a comfortable ambiance. Though all of the available seafood options sound appealing, you opt for raw oysters and a glass of sparkling champagne.

A server takes your order and returns to serve you a dozen oysters, all shucked and placed in a circle over ice, paired with lemon wedges, Tabasco, and mignonette sauce. You squeeze lemon juice over an oyster shell, adding a bit of hot sauce on top. Picking up your topped shell, you loosen the oyster with a fork and move it towards your mouth, slurping down the oyster’s fleshy, briny body. You chew the oyster, taking note of its complex flavor profile. Each bite releases a fresh, salty taste, paired with a soft, slippery texture that is rich in umami and creaminess. You proceed to take a sip of champagne, the acidity and bubbles bite through the oyster’s richness, resulting in the perfect blend of flavors. 

As you enjoy your meal, you may find yourself wondering about the oysters on your plate. Where did they come from? Who harvested them? Whose hands brought these oysters to your table? Behind every oyster lies a complex chain of labor, much of it performed by women whose contributions are often overlooked by managers and forgotten by consumers alike. The absence of women in media coverage of fisheries and aquaculture reinforces the perception that labor-intensive seafood production is predominantly masculine. In contrast, women’s work is viewed as invisible and supplemental. 

The media often portrays oysters as an acquired delicacy, indulgent to some and off-putting to others. However, oysters are more than just an item on a menu: they are keystone species and ecosystem engineers in coastal marine ecosystems. They grow in clusters, anchored to solid rocks in shallow, coastal waters. These clusters form oyster reefs, which create valuable habitats for numerous marine species, including those that are commercially significant, like shrimp and anchovies (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration Fisheries, 2022). Oysters are often nicknamed “nature’s Brita filter,” as they draw water through their gills and clean at least 50 gallons of water per day for food. They actively filter pollutants from the environment that would otherwise pose a threat to organisms residing in shallow, brackish waters (Chesapeake Bay Foundation, n.d.). 

Beyond their foundational ecological role, oysters hold cultural prevalence for residents of coastal communities. Humans have enjoyed this shellfish for thousands of years. Oysters were first cultivated as early as the 4th century B.C. by the Greeks, who scattered broken pottery pieces into the ocean in the hope of recruiting juvenile oysters that could be grown and harvested for consumption. The concept of eating oysters for aphrodisiac effects or to stimulate sexual desire originated from Greek mythology: Aphrodite, goddess of love and beauty, was born from an oyster shell. This imagery led to the belief that eating oysters would enhance fertility by invoking Aphrodite’s libido-boosting powers (Yoshida, 2025). Her emergence from the sea frames the ocean as a life-giving, nurturing force linked to femininity. While Greek mythology idolized her rearing power, women sustaining modern oyster production remain largely unrecognized, highlighting the gap between symbolic worship and real-world recognition. 

Beyond their cultural presence, oysters became an economic commodity in coastal communities. By the 19th-century, an oyster craze had swept the United States and driven the overharvesting of oysters. With the onset of industrialization and canning technology, oysters could now be commercially harvested and preserved for millions to enjoy. The infatuation with this shellfish led to at least 160 million pounds of oysters being harvested per year from 1880 to 1910 (Isa, 2017). Harvested oysters have a short time frame before spoiling, so they were often canned for longer preservation. Post-harvest tasks, such as shucking and canning, were primarily performed by women, yet their contributions were rarely documented in historical records. Framed as supplemental, women’s labor was systematically excluded from industry accounts, mirroring the same labor invisibility women experience today (O’Grady, 2010).

Furthermore, the environmental cost of rapid industrial expansion proved devastating. Ecological studies have estimated that approximately 85% of the world’s oyster reefs have vanished within the last 150 years due to overharvesting and disease (Beck et al., 2011). Farmed oysters have been essential to restoring wild oyster reefs. This shift not only makes it possible to meet consumer demands but also limits the need for wild harvest, relieving much of the stress acting on wild oysters. About 95% of the oysters consumed now have been raised on farms ("Farmed vs Wild," 2021). Once the cultivated oysters are fully grown, some are transferred from farm to reef sites, where they have a higher chance of survival (The Nature Conservancy, n.d.). Fundamentally, oyster aquaculture is a major reason why oyster reefs persist today and why people are still able to enjoy oysters as they have for millennia. Oyster farming is regarded by marine scientists as one of the most environmentally sustainable forms of food production (Neokye et al., 2024). 

Sustainability has become a rising concern in recent years, especially as consumers grow increasingly aware of their impact on the environment (Downs, n.d.). Through coverage by environmental organizations and sustainability-focused journalism, people generally view oyster aquaculture as a sustainable and economically viable industry (Watson-Hampton, 2025). By purchasing from local oyster farms, people are able to support environmental initiatives like improving the quality of water sources and restoring natural oyster habitats. Consumers also help maintain local economies and keep the livelihoods of farmers afloat, allowing them to support their families and continue providing communities with nutrient-rich food sources. However, while development in consumer consciousness has centered around environmental outcomes, the human labor sustaining these operations remains invisible to the public eye. 

Many consumers are unfamiliar with the realities of oyster farming. The work is physically demanding and requires specialized equipment and proper knowledge of farm operations. Farmers maneuver boats along rope lines anchored to submerged oyster cages, using hooked metal rods to locate and retrieve the cages from the water. Once hauled aboard, the cages are inspected, and oysters grown to market size are harvested. This process is repeated until the daily quota is met. Description of these tasks gives no insight into who is doing the work, yet dominant cultural narratives tend to associate the physical work of aquaculture with men–a notion that overlooks the substantial presence of women in the industry.

Approximately 47 million women in fisheries make up about 50% of the workers in the seafood production sector (Williams et al., 2025). Feminist researchers with a seafood background have recognized the lack of statistics on women participating in aquaculture globally, which in turn limits their visibility in policy decisions and leadership within the industry (Chambon et al., 2023). It has been estimated that up to 95% of workers at the supply chain level (i.e., processing seafood after harvest) are women. Without them, there would be a lack of seafood in our markets and on our plates; these women are essential workers who make up a significant bulk of the industry (Jackson, 2022). 

This invisibility is harmful—it leads to “gender-blind” policies and structures, promoting inequality and social norms that affect women in the seafood industry. When women are rendered invisible, their needs are not addressed, their contributions are not compensated, and the inequalities that marginalize them are reproduced across time (Mangubhai et al., 2023). Additionally, gender-based violence poses a significant barrier for women. Regarding sexual harassment in the seafood industry, about 70% of all incidents experienced by women go unreported. This reflects the fear of retaliation and job loss that silences many women in the industry (Seafood and Gender Equality, (n.d.). 

Despite these barriers, the number of women joining the aquaculture sector has been steadily rising. Unlike traditional capture fisheries with male-dominated unions that have limited women’s entry and presence, aquaculture’s relatively recent emergence has created more opportunities for women to participate as farm owners, hatchery technicians, and harvest workers. Although women have been essential to the development of aquaculture, their contributions remain largely absent from media coverage, reinforcing the assumption that aquaculture is male-dominated by default. This invisibility is not only figurative; it has real consequences, as representation shapes how industries are managed and how work is valued. The history of oyster aquaculture demonstrates that sustainable food production not only relates to supporting healthy ecosystems but also to creating opportunities for equal recognition and equitable human labor.  

Although oyster farming is widely recognized for its environmental and economic benefits, the gendered labor that makes it possible is too often overlooked. Public and scientific narratives often prioritize ecological outcomes over social equity, rendering women’s work invisible despite their crucial role in sustaining the industry. Ensuring the health of aquatic environments and the stability of global food systems requires centering the voices and labor of the women who make both possible.

 

References

Beck, M. W., Brumbaugh, R. D., Airoldi, L., Carranza, A., Coen, L. D., Crawford, C., Defeo, O., Edgar, G. J., Hancock, B., Kay, M. C., Lenihan, H. S., Luckenbach, M. W., Toropova, C. L., Zhang, G., & Guo, X. (2011). Oyster reefs at risk and recommendations for conservation, restoration, and management. BioScience, 61(2), 107–116. https://doi.org/10.1525/bio.2011.61.2.5 

Chambon, M., Miñarro, S., Santiago Alvarez Fernandez, Porcher, V., Victòria Reyes-García, Huran Tonalli Drouet, & Patrizia Ziveri. (2023). A synthesis of women’s participation in small-scale fisheries management: Why women’s voices matter. Reviews in Fish Biology and Fisheries, 34, 43-63. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11160-023-09806-2 

Chesapeake Bay Foundation. (n.d.). Oyster fact sheet. https://www.cbf.org/resources/oyster-fact-sheet/

Downs, M. (n.d.). The rise of sustainability is causing a shift in consumer consciousness. UC Riverside. https://extension.ucr.edu/features/riseofsustainability 

Farmed vs wild oysters. (2021, November 3). Oysters XO. https://oystersxo.com/blogs/news/farmed-vs-wild-oysters

Isa, M. (2017, February 23). The great oyster craze: Why 19th century Americans loved oysters. MSU Campus Archaeology Program. https://campusarch.msu.edu/?p=4962 

Jackson, L. (2022, September 19). How inequality continues to impact women in aquaculture and the obstacles to change. Minorities in Aquaculture. https://www.mianpo.org/news/how-inequality-continues-to-impact-women-in-aquaculture-and-the-obstacles-to-change 

Mangubhai, S., Barclay, K. M., Lawless, S., & Makhoul, N. (2023). Gender‐based violence: Relevance for fisheries practitioners. Fish and Fisheries, 24(4), 582-594. https://doi.org/10.1111/faf.12747 

National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration Fisheries. (2022, February 4). Oyster reef habitat. https://www.fisheries.noaa.gov/national/habitat-conservation/oyster-reef-habitat 

Neokye, E. O., Wang, X., Thakur, K. K., Quijón, P. A., & Nawaz, R. A. (2024). Climate change impacts on oyster aquaculture - Part II: Impact assessment and adaptation measures. Environmental Research, 259, Article 119535. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envres.2024.119535 

O’Grady, E. M. (2010). “You have no boss here to work for”: Women and labor in Chesapeake Bay fishing communities [Master’s thesis, College of William and Mary]. W & M ScholarWorks. https://dx.doi.org/doi:10.21220/s2-386q-g854 

Seafood and Gender Equality. (n.d.). Gender and seafood. RISE Seafood. https://riseseafood.org/topics/women-in-seafood/ 

The Nature Conservancy. (n.d.). SOAR: Supporting Oyster Aquaculture and Restoration. https://www.nature.org/en-us/what-we-do/our-priorities/provide-food-and-water-sustainably/food-and-water-stories/oyster-covid-relief-restoration/ 

Watson-Hampton, S. (2025, July 2). Shell yeah! Maryland oyster farms make waves.  Farm Progress. https://www.farmprogress.com/farm-business/oyster-aquaculture-reshapes-r-month-rule-boosts-marylands-seafood-industry 

Williams, M. J., Gopal, N., Kusakabe, K., & Fakoya, K. (2025). Women work in fisheries too: The gender in aquaculture and fisheries section story. Frontiers in Ocean Sustainability, 3, Article 1599625. https://doi.org/10.3389/focsu.2025.1599625 

Yoshida, J. (2025, December 30). Oysters - A seafood delicacy with rich history & benefits. Smokey Bay Seafood. https://smokeybay.com/oysters-a-seafood-delicacy/